Wednesday, September 21, 2016
Au Revoir From France
The final day was spent in Paris, staying near the Statue of Liberty-another site I remember from 30 years ago. It was a great trip through some of the Platagent sites, intermixed with other parts of French history. I suspect there is still more to write in the future so until then, Au Revoir. 
Chartre and another light show!
Last time I was in Chartre was 30 years ago with my sister. Actually 30 years ago next month. We managed to take the train from Paris for the day and saw the cathedral with the amazing 12th and 13th century stained glass. I think we found the church, walked around and walked back to the train. This time I thought the city warranted an overnight which turned out to be a great idea because they have a light show!
The train on Angers was late, keeping up my history of trains coming back from trips being messed up, but made it to Le Mans with plenty of time to 1)decide there is nothing in that city I need to visit, 2) make a leisurely connection to Chartre. Once there it was a quick ride to the hotel, which had lovely big rooms with cathedral ceilings. The walk to the cathedral was through a growing downtown but it being Monday most shops were closed. The cathedral really is the only awesome thing to see in the town although parts of the town have old small roads which are fun to walk.
Although the plan was to have an audio tour, there was an English speaking tour led by an American leaving shortly after we got to the church so it made sense to join that. We spent two hours walking the cathedral, learning how it was up to seven churches built on the same site, looking at the outside to see all the different architecture styles, including two very different steeples.
We went to the crypt and saw the fifth century church remain and some frescos including one of Richard the Lionhearted. There is a major renovation project underway so you can see the before and after of the cleaning of the stone in the church which was very interesting in the contract of how much dirt was being removed. Finally, we saw Mary's veil, which was given to the church by Charles the Bold, Charlemagne's son as it was a gift to his father from the Empress of Byzantium. We learned it survived a fire that destroyed the church in the 1100's being saved by three priests who took it to the cellar and hid there during the fire.
We also learned of the American who had saved the church in WWII. Although all the glass had been removed early in the war, half to Vichy and half in the cellars after the trains to Vichy were bombed making the trip unsafe for such precious items, Americans thought the church was held by the Nazis and were ready to bomb it until a lone American went in and realized it was empty. Wellborn (yep, weird name) Griffith was a colonel and USMA graduate who in August 1944, climbed the tower to make sure the church and area were free of Nazis which resulted in rescinding the order to shell the cathedral. He was killed later that day in a neighboring town but was posthumously awarded a number of French and American medals. For 60 years his family did not know the story as the plagues were to Griffith Wellborn, not Wellborn Griffith.
The train on Angers was late, keeping up my history of trains coming back from trips being messed up, but made it to Le Mans with plenty of time to 1)decide there is nothing in that city I need to visit, 2) make a leisurely connection to Chartre. Once there it was a quick ride to the hotel, which had lovely big rooms with cathedral ceilings. The walk to the cathedral was through a growing downtown but it being Monday most shops were closed. The cathedral really is the only awesome thing to see in the town although parts of the town have old small roads which are fun to walk.
Although the plan was to have an audio tour, there was an English speaking tour led by an American leaving shortly after we got to the church so it made sense to join that. We spent two hours walking the cathedral, learning how it was up to seven churches built on the same site, looking at the outside to see all the different architecture styles, including two very different steeples.
We also learned of the American who had saved the church in WWII. Although all the glass had been removed early in the war, half to Vichy and half in the cellars after the trains to Vichy were bombed making the trip unsafe for such precious items, Americans thought the church was held by the Nazis and were ready to bomb it until a lone American went in and realized it was empty. Wellborn (yep, weird name) Griffith was a colonel and USMA graduate who in August 1944, climbed the tower to make sure the church and area were free of Nazis which resulted in rescinding the order to shell the cathedral. He was killed later that day in a neighboring town but was posthumously awarded a number of French and American medals. For 60 years his family did not know the story as the plagues were to Griffith Wellborn, not Wellborn Griffith.
Sunday, September 18, 2016
Sunday
Anyone who has traveled in France knows that Sundays can be a challenge. Despite the fact that the 18th century revolution decimated the power of the church, the French take the day of rest seriously. Everything is closed. This is why we flew out last weekend on Sunday, gladly giving up on extra vacation day to avoid the challenges of finding things to see and do on a French Sunday. Today started in the local gardens near the hotel. Breakfast (coffee and a brioch) was in the Parc du Mail, opposite the town hall and then there was plenty of time to view the Garden of the Plantes where everything is labeled. There were events for children in the park so it was fun watching so many families enjoying the lovely weather and the pretty plants. Still the town gardens while pretty were small so after about 90 minutes they were fully explored.
Keeping up the plant theme, it made sense to head to Terra Bontanica, an amusement park dedicated to plants. The amusement park would be open on Sunday because it would be a family friendly activity. First though, as the park was located outside of the main city and we had turned in the car the day before (and the car rental service is closed on Sunday), we needed to figure out how to get there so a trip to the tourist office was necessary. Walking through the picturesque streets we found the former Toussaint abbey church, dating from the 13th century, that was restored in 1984. It is now covered with a glass roof, and houses the works of sculptor, Pierre-Jean David, known as David d’Angers (1788-1856). Thanks to the Journees du Europeanne patrimony the museum was free to enter. Pierre-Jean David, born in 1788 changed his name to David of Angers after starting to distinguish himself from other similarly named artists. He worked on both the Arc d'Triomphe and the Louvre and made numerous busts of famous men in France, the US and Germany. Among those he immortalized are Jefferson and Washington. He also was a specialist in large and detailed reliefs showing historical scenes. Some of his work are more than 20 feet high.
Finally getting to the tourist office, we learned there was a tram that had a stop called Terra Botanica, a good sign and we got discount tickets for entrance. Finding the tram stop was a bit more challenging, but staring at a map with a puzzled look results in help being offered by passers by. As I can understand directions in French we found a stop negotiated the ticket purchase from the machine and headed off. What the tourist office forgot to mention was that Terra Botanica is neither visible from the tram stop not are there any signs pointing out the right directions. Long story short, the pathway was finally found and we arrived at the gate. Inside there are gardens and flowers from all over the world, including Louisiana. There were rides, a nut ride above the trees and a water ride through the 'gardens of Duke Rene' honoring the Anjou Duke who brought back so many plants and flowers to this region of France. There was a butterfly house and an orchid house. All in all, despite it being later in the season, a great place to spend the afternoon.
It was easier to get back to town and then begin the walk around to find a open restaurant-yep, restaurants close on Sunday as well. Finally finding one with some good pasta options, including pasta carbonara which was far lighter in the French version than what you get at home. It came with an egg on top, to be mixed into the pasta and ham. After dinner came more walking and using the weekend event to peek into the Theatre and get to walk all around - including up on the stage. Finally it was over to see the castle at sunset and then back to the hotel to pack for tomorrow's trip to Chartre. I have not been there in 30 years!
Keeping up the plant theme, it made sense to head to Terra Bontanica, an amusement park dedicated to plants. The amusement park would be open on Sunday because it would be a family friendly activity. First though, as the park was located outside of the main city and we had turned in the car the day before (and the car rental service is closed on Sunday), we needed to figure out how to get there so a trip to the tourist office was necessary. Walking through the picturesque streets we found the former Toussaint abbey church, dating from the 13th century, that was restored in 1984. It is now covered with a glass roof, and houses the works of sculptor, Pierre-Jean David, known as David d’Angers (1788-1856). Thanks to the Journees du Europeanne patrimony the museum was free to enter. Pierre-Jean David, born in 1788 changed his name to David of Angers after starting to distinguish himself from other similarly named artists. He worked on both the Arc d'Triomphe and the Louvre and made numerous busts of famous men in France, the US and Germany. Among those he immortalized are Jefferson and Washington. He also was a specialist in large and detailed reliefs showing historical scenes. Some of his work are more than 20 feet high.
Finally getting to the tourist office, we learned there was a tram that had a stop called Terra Botanica, a good sign and we got discount tickets for entrance. Finding the tram stop was a bit more challenging, but staring at a map with a puzzled look results in help being offered by passers by. As I can understand directions in French we found a stop negotiated the ticket purchase from the machine and headed off. What the tourist office forgot to mention was that Terra Botanica is neither visible from the tram stop not are there any signs pointing out the right directions. Long story short, the pathway was finally found and we arrived at the gate. Inside there are gardens and flowers from all over the world, including Louisiana. There were rides, a nut ride above the trees and a water ride through the 'gardens of Duke Rene' honoring the Anjou Duke who brought back so many plants and flowers to this region of France. There was a butterfly house and an orchid house. All in all, despite it being later in the season, a great place to spend the afternoon.
It was easier to get back to town and then begin the walk around to find a open restaurant-yep, restaurants close on Sunday as well. Finally finding one with some good pasta options, including pasta carbonara which was far lighter in the French version than what you get at home. It came with an egg on top, to be mixed into the pasta and ham. After dinner came more walking and using the weekend event to peek into the Theatre and get to walk all around - including up on the stage. Finally it was over to see the castle at sunset and then back to the hotel to pack for tomorrow's trip to Chartre. I have not been there in 30 years!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)