First Day-to Llanes

We started this morning by stepping back 37,500 years, as we headed to El Castile and some ancient caves. There are 14 Neolithic and cro-magon caves is the Basque mountains and we visited one where you can go see the original artwork. This one was discovered in the early 20th century and a grant from the then Prince of Monaco allowed the excavation. The cave is huge and in some places still an archaeological site where you can see layers of earth back 150,000 years. Mostly though you go through elaborate limestone caves with a guide who points out the artwork. These caves have dozens of handprints in them as well as drawings of deer and bison and some stars. We learned that bison have been extinct in Europe since the 16th century but due to the low light necessary to keep the cave art safe are still running through the Basque mountains as images on the walls. Unfortunately, no photos are allowed in the caves so the handprints have been replicated on exhibits.

After we finished in the caves, we left the Basque country and moved to the Region of Asturias. The current heir to the Spanish throne is known as the prince or princess (currently princess) of Asturias.

After the tour, we headed to Llanes and lunch which started with a honey covered tortilla that you smothered in blue cheese sauce. Pretty nice. We also had an opportunity to try Asturias cider which I was interested in checking out. Here the pouring of the cider is a spectacle as the bartender raises his arm over his head with the bottle and then pours into a glass that is held in a partial keg. The cider was interesting but I remain partial to Norman and Breton versions.

We set out from Llanes stopping to see the huge painted sea walls honoring those who emigrated from this region-a theme we would see all week. We learned about the name Camino, the way to Santiago and some of the many dozens of routes, the coastal or northern route, the primitivo-the first one, the French way-the most popular, are the three that we will be on this week. We started along the coast seeing our first scallop shells that are the sign posted markers. We walked along the coast that we shared with cattle all afternoon before shuttling back to Llanes for the night. Before settling in to the converted convent, now a fancy hotel, we stopped by the local Camino hostel and purchased Camino passports and scallop shells with the sword of St James painted on them. We think we are supposed to wear the scallop shells which have a red string on them and a Red Cross painted on the front but we have carefully packed them away as holiday ornaments. The passport is how you prove to the cathedral that you actually finished the pilgrimage. As we will be on and off a few trails, we will not acquire the complete proof but it will still be fun to fill up as we go along the way.